Kande beach

After 2 days spent in a bus driving through Zambia, and being greeted by Zebras when coming out of the shower, I finally arrived in Malawi and spent the next 2 days on Kande Beach, which is situated on the shore of the famous lake that covers a fifth of the country.

Malawi is known to be the "Heart of Africa", because people here are very friendly. One day, I just wanted to relax and read a book on the beach. Then, 2 boys came by and wanted to sale me paintings and bracelets. I ended up talking to one of them for the whole day about everything and nothing. His name is John. "It feels good to talk to someone as open as you are...most tourists don't trust us," John said.

Tourists call them "dodgy boys", they follow you around and try to sell you things, some will even try to scam you. Then I met John, and I realized how hard it must be to please tourists on a daily basis...to compete with other boys who are doing the exact same thing. It's not easy. Sometimes, those boys are the only source of income for a big family...

Later that night, we started a fire on the beach and some local people joined us and played drums. It was awesome!

The rest of Zimbabwe

Yesterday, I went to see the ruins of Great Zimbabwe.

Here are some pictures...

The next day, I went to Harare which is the capital city of Zimbabwe. Some buildings are quite modern while some other streets made me feel like I was in an old dirty comic book; it was quite special. I wanted to take pictures, but I did not feel safe enough to do so. There were many boys, and lots of them are dodgy. I didn't come across any other tourists either.

I explored around the first street and ended up in the Freedom Square, where I saw people reading journals, chatting, and people watching. I also saw the parliament and many little shady streets.

A day spent tracking rhinos on foot

Today was a difficult but good day.

I went to Matobo with a guide, Ian, to track rhinos on foot. He is very experienced and knowledgeable and had many great stories to tell. We followed footsteps, feces and other traces of rhinos in hope to find them. The weather was very hot and dry. Sometimes, when it's too cold during winter, our nose hurts a little bit from breathing cold air...well, I never realized that it's the same in hot and dry weather.

After the long hikes through dried forests and long grasses, I realized that Ian's lips turned white. He must be so tired, but I could see that he was very passionate about what he does. When he grabbed the feces with his bare hands, I thought it was funny in my head, but he was so serious doing his job... I felt like a spoiled princess for doubting whether the long hikes were worth it, and for enjoying my cold orange juice and water, ha.

We found some shade under a rock, and saw some bushmen paintings.

We did not have much success, so we decided to head back to the vehicle. I thought to myself at that moment; maybe we will see them when it's least expected.

....and guess what, this is exactly what happened!

They realized that there were human beings watching them so they ran away, but we followed them for a little bit. They were probably looking for some shades to have a nap.

This is "Top of the World", which is where Cecil Rhodes, founder of Rhodesia, is buried.

Amazing landscape on our way to see more bushman paintings.

...and a burned forest that was still burning in some parts. The heat and the smoke was so unsupportable, but we had to see the bushmen paintings which is the oldest trace of humanity.

We saw some interesting shapes of granite, such as these balancing rocks known as the "Mother and Child Kopje". You just sit there and wonder, how did this happen?

We had some more time left, so we decided to track some more rhinos. It was hot and dry...and again, just as we were about to give up, we bumped into a man with a gun and he told us that he saw a pair and showed us the way.

Seeing rhinos in the wild is a very privileged thing, because they are almost extinct...possibly as soon as 10 years from now. My children will not have the chance to see them. It was one of my best days in Africa, because I believe in fate, and I believe that somewhere, someone is giving me a hint to give up, to let go...but to be honest, I don't quite understand why it's when we're about to give up that we find them...It's not fair. Maybe I will understand one day...

A little bit of Bulawayo

I'm in Bulawayo! This is Zimbabwe's second largest city...

Not too far from here is Matobo National park, which is where rhinos can be tracked on foot.

Before heading there, here are some pictures of Bulawayo...

Hwange

Teun left for Botswana yesterday, and Claude left for France. I'm finally leaving Victoria Falls as well.

I've been here for a week, but it almost feels like a lifetime. I've met so many good friends here; I feel blessed to be able meet them. There's Teun who I had a great time with, we told each other everything, and we made fun of each other's life. There's Claude who is like my little brother; he was such a cheerful and wonderful person. Obviously, I cannot forget the tall black guy who tried to hold my hand so innocently, Reward who was the first to offer me help and all those strangers I bumped into randomly and smiled at me with such warmth. I love going to Shoestrings and people remember you because you're like part of the family. I'm really touched.

...but it's time to move on!

I arrived in Hwange to do some game drives in a open jeep!

I got to see many animals in their natural habitat, but I didn't take many pictures because the zoom of my camera isn't that great.

The most I've seen are zebras and giraffes. Giraffes are so gracious and majestic when they run; they represent Africa to me. I have seen them drinking water at a water hole, and monkey families hanging around, then a herd of elephants arrived running to the water, the little ones were the cutest. Two other herds of elephants joined later as well. There was also an alligator not far who was being a loner. It was such a happy moment.

The guide who works for African Wanderer Safaris, Jordan, reminded me of R with his tanned and reddish skin tone, his cheeks and the way he talks; it's so powerful and passionate...it just sucks people in. He is obviously very knowledgeable as well, smart and loves what he does. His pride for his country and his love for animals and nature is truly inspiring. I could listen to him talk forever!

I also did a night game drive. I saw a pack of buffaloes, which is very rare. "Other animals can express what they feel with body language, but buffaloes will just give you a blank stare like you owe them money, and once they decide to charge towards you, they will not stop", Jordan explained. We took the time to stop to admire the sky, all the stars and the milky way. I've never seen such a beautiful sky...I will miss that about Africa.

Victoria falls

So, I've been in Victoria falls for a few days without actually being to the falls, ha.

Since it's dry season here, I didn't get to see it in full flood. It was still pretty impressive. It took me a good 3 hours to walk from one end to another. Compared to Niagara falls, Victoria falls is wilder and more victorious. Niagara falls, on the other hand, is more gracious and tamed. I'd really like to visit again during peak season.

Sunset "booze" cruise

I went on a sunset cruise on Zambezi, which is sometimes called "booze" cruise, because you can drink as much as you want. The problem is, there are no toilets except the river, so you cannot actually drink that much. I had crocodile meat, which tastes like chicken. It was pretty relaxing, had a good chat with some Aussies...

We made short stops at the various islands that dot the river to look for wildlife.

A hippo, hehe, it's so cute!

An Aussie I met...

Sunset in Africa is indeed very distinct and beautiful.